The Grumpy Whale Method to Staying Warm and Dry in Iceland

The short answer: to stay warm and dry in Iceland, wear three layers (a wool or synthetic base layer, a warm mid layer, and a waterproof, windproof shell), protect your head, hands and feet, and avoid cotton. Iceland’s weather changes quickly, so you need clothes you can add or remove, not one big coat.

We live in the East of Iceland, where it can be sunny, sideways-raining and snowing within a single afternoon. Over the years of hosting guests we’ve settled on a simple system. We call it The Grumpy Whale Method, because the only grumpy person on an Iceland trip is a cold, wet one. 🐋

The Grumpy Whale Method at a glance

1. Layer (base, mid, shell)
2. Seal (head, hands, feet, neck)
3. Stay dry from the inside
4. Warm up properly

Step 1: Layer, don’t bulk up

Layers trap warm air and let you adjust as conditions change.

• Base layer: merino wool or synthetic thermals that sit against your skin and move sweat away. Never cotton. It holds moisture and makes you cold.
• Mid layer: a wool jumper, fleece or light down jacket. This is your warmth layer, and you can take it off when the sun comes out.
• Outer shell: a waterproof and windproof jacket with a hood. Wind is what makes Iceland feel cold, so a good shell matters more than a thick coat.
• Waterproof trousers: essential for waterfalls, rain, wet grass and black sand beaches. Jeans soak through and stay cold.

Step 2: Seal the gaps

You lose warmth fastest through your extremities, so protect them.

• Head: a warm hat that covers your ears, even in summer.
• Neck: a buff or scarf stops wind getting down your collar.
• Hands: waterproof gloves, or thin liners under mittens in winter.
• Feet: waterproof walking boots with grip, plus wool or merino socks. Take a spare pair.

Step 3: Stay dry from the inside

Rain isn’t the only thing that makes you wet. Sweat does too.

• Open zips or take off a layer before you get hot on a walk.
• Pack a dry spare base layer and socks in the car for after hikes, hot springs or waterfall spray.
• Use a small dry bag for your phone, camera and spare clothes.

Step 4: Warm up properly

Cosy is the whole point of our adventures.

• Keep a flask of something hot in the car. (Hot chocolate is our favourite.)
• Plan a warm stop, such as a café, a harbour-side lunch or a hot spring, after a cold or wet activity.
• Hot spring tip: bring a towel, a bag for your wet swimwear, and a warm hat for the walk back to the changing room. Wet hair in the wind gets cold fast.

What to wear by season

Season Typical conditions Key extras Summer (June to August) Mild, changeable, often wet and windy. Long daylight. Light waterproofs, a fleece, a sleep mask for the midnight sun Autumn (September to October) Cooler, with more rain and wind. Northern lights season begins. Warmer mid layer, gloves, a headlamp Winter (November to March) Cold, with snow, ice and short days. Thermals, insulated jacket, ice grips for boots, hand warmers Spring (April to May) Unpredictable, sunshine and snow in the same week. Full layers, because spring is no guarantee of warmth

Temperatures and conditions vary a lot by region and by day, so check the forecast before you set off.

Iceland packing list

• Merino or synthetic base layers (2 sets)
• Fleece or wool mid layer
• Waterproof and windproof jacket with a hood
• Waterproof trousers
• Waterproof walking boots
• Wool socks (3 to 4 pairs)
• Hat, gloves and a buff
• Swimsuit and quick-dry towel
• Dry bag
• Reusable water bottle and flask

Mistakes we see all the time

• Wearing jeans or cotton leggings outdoors
• Relying on one thick coat instead of layers
• Bringing fashion boots without grip
• Forgetting a swimsuit (hot springs are one of the best things to do here)
• Underestimating wind, especially on the coast

Check conditions before you go

For forecasts, use the Icelandic Met Office. For road conditions and safety alerts, check road.is and safetravel.is. In an emergency, call 112.

Stay warm and dry with us in East Iceland

East Iceland has quiet fjords, reindeer, waterfalls and cosy villages, and we help our guests get out in all weathers. If you’d like a private, custom tour with someone who knows the local conditions, send us a trip request and we’ll plan something for you.

Looking for more ideas? Read our East Coast visitor guide, our guide to the best tours and day trips from Djúpivogur, or Christmas in East Iceland.

FAQs

What should I wear in Iceland in summer?
Wear layers: a base layer, a fleece, and a waterproof jacket and trousers. Summer is mild but often wet and windy, so pack a hat and light gloves too.

What should I wear in Iceland in winter?
Wear thermal base layers, an insulated mid layer, a waterproof and windproof shell, waterproof trousers, insulated boots, a hat and gloves. Ice grips for your boots are very useful.

Do I need waterproof trousers in Iceland?
Yes, in most seasons. They’re essential near waterfalls, on wet trails and in rain, and they weigh almost nothing in a bag.

Are jeans OK in Iceland?
Not for outdoor activities. Jeans soak up water and take a long time to dry, which makes you cold quickly.

Is it always cold in Iceland?
No, but it’s changeable and windy. The wind and rain make it feel colder than the temperature suggests, which is why layers matter.

What should I bring to a hot spring?
A swimsuit, a towel, a bag for wet clothes, flip-flops, and a warm hat for afterwards.

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